San
Michele in Isola
Jpg: Philip
Resheph
From: Timeout.com
Just
opposite the Fondamenta
Nuove, halfway between Venice and Murano, this is the island where any
tour of the lagoon begins. But for many Venetians it is their last
stop,
as San Michele is the historic site of the city's cemetery. Early
in the morning, the vaporetto is packed with Venetians coming
over
to lay flowers. This is not a morbid spot, though - like
Père
Lachaise in Paris, it is an elegant and explorable city of the dead,
with
more than one famous resident.
An orderly
red-brick wall runs round
the whole of the island, with a line of tall cypress trees rising
high behind it - the inspiration for Böcklin's famously
lugubrious
painting Island
of the Dead. The vaporetto only takes a couple of minutes, stopping at
the elegant Convento di San Michele in Isola (open
7.30am-12.15pm,
3-4pm, daily). Built by Mauro Coducci in the 1460s, this striking
white building of Istrian stone is Venice's first Renaissance
church,
with a tripartite façade inspired by Leon Battista Alberti's
Tempio
Malatestiana in Rimini. The grounds of the Franciscan monastery
that
used to extend behind the church were seconded for burials when the
city
was under Napoleonic rule, in an effort to stop Venetians digging
graves
in the campi around the parish churches. Soon it was the only place to
be seen dead in. Most Venetians still want to make that last
journey
to San Michele, even though these days it's more a temporary
parking-lot
than a final resting place. The island reached saturation point long
ago,
and even after paying through the nose for a plot, families know that
after
a suitable period - generally around ten years - the bones of their
loved
ones will be dug up and transferred to an ossuary on another island,
leaving
just a plaque.
Visitors enter
the cemetery (open
7.30am-4pm daily) through a dignified arch, marked by a fifteenth
century bas-relief of St Michael slaying a dragon with one hand
and
holding a pair of scales in the other. Beyond are the cool
cloisters
of the restored monastery, whose brothers look after both church
and
cemetery. They also hand out rough maps of the cemetery layout,
which
are indispensable for celebrity hunts. In the Greek and Russian
Orthodox
section is the elaborate tomb of Serge Pavlovich Diaghilev, who
introduced
the Ballet Russe to Europe, and a simpler monument to the composer Igor
Stravinsky and his wife. The Protestant section has a selection of
ships'
captains and passengers who ended their days in La Serenissima, plus
the
simple grave of Ezra Pound. There's a rather sad children's section,
and
a corner dedicated to the city's gondoliers, their tombs decorated with
carvings and statues of - you guessed it - gondolas. Visit the cemetery
on the Festa dei morti - All Souls Day, 2 November - and the vaporetto
is free, as thousands of Venetians cross the lagoon to pay their
respects. (timeout.com)
Notes:
Special thanks to
Philip Resheph,
of London,
a friend
of the JSS Gallery, for sending me this image.
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